I have treasured plants brought from the family home I sold a year ago. The plants have been thriving in the yard of the rent house I moved to but I discovered fire-ants all around. I want to take cuttings from when I move soon. . Any green ideas for organic gardening ?
try a solution of water (boiled) with one clove of garlic and some powdered cayenne pepper, then add a drop of dishsoap. This can be sprayed on your plants and will keep bugs off for a little while… worth a try.
I want to grow organic potatoes in a container garden?
All of the books I have read, say that you MUST use certified seed potatoes. Is there any reason I shouldn't seed out some of the organic fingerling potatoes I already have? I can understand not using regular storebought potatoes, but shouldn't organic be okay? Same question about sweet potatoes. Any tips or advice will be appreciated!
If you are going to re sell them you probably need the certified seed potatoes….If not….I cut up the grocery store variety…and I don't use pesticides…so they are organic…cept from the eye of the potatoe it starts with…but after that all the growth is organic.
What are the best organic tonics for growing tomatoes?
First : your plants must be put in a hole, big like 2 tennis balls full of home-compost – Cost = zero
Second : water-canned very often – Cost = zero
Third : "pruned" very often mainly in the development phase
the bottom of the unique central trunk must be
without any branch
All the leaves and branches that you cut are spread
at the bottom of the plants – Cost = zero
Fourth : nettles – harvest them – about big like two or three
buckets – then let them get rotten in a barrel with
some water – when it stinks it's good – cost=zero
Then pour some of the "nettle-juice" at tje bottom
of the tomato plants
Fifth : find copper wire – the kind you find after electricians
re-cable – cut it in one inch pieces
Pierce the bottom of the central branch with one
piece of copper-wire – cost =zero
Great gardenning is a good job for greedy people –
Fall Garden Chores for Spring Flowering Bulbs
As the school busses begin to rumble down the road again we are
reminded that the gardening season is drawing to a close. For
the gardener with an eye toward next spring, however, the season
still promises plenty to be done in preparation of a showy
spring to come. Early fall is the time when we should be
planting our bulbs.
Good soil drainage is paramount for spring-blooming bulb
success. If you have a mostly clay soil be sure to mix in
organic material such as compost to lighten the soil. The soil
pH should be between 6 and 7. If you need assistance in
determining your soil pH or in discovering how to manage its
level refer to your local agricultural extension service for
help.
Spring flowering bulbs are great for beds, in borders, and in
rock gardens. These early risers prefer to be planted in areas
which will not receive direct sunlight during the midday,
especially once the hot summer months roll back around.
Wait until soil temperatures are below 60 F (16 C) before
planting. If you purchase your bulbs before the cold season sets
in you may keep them in your refrigerator until the soil has
cooled sufficiently. The fall planting ensures the bulbs will
have adequate opportunity to develop a strong root system before
they come up in the spring and early summer to greet you.
When you are ready to plant your bulbs, follow the directions
carefully for the depth and spacing requirements and be certain
to loosen the soil beneath the depth of planting. The easiest
fertilization method for your spring bulbs is a single
application of a sulfur-coated, slow-release fertilizer
incorporated into the bottom of your bulb hole at planting time.
After having placed the bulbs in their new home, begin to cover
them with the soil you removed to dig the hole. When you have
covered the bulbs halfway give them a thorough soaking before
covering them with the remaining soil.
With such wonderful options as corn lily, grape hyacinth and
tulips your work will be rewarded in the spring with the finest
of gardening pleasures. The joy can possibly only be compared to
the sound of the school busses rumbling down the road
The Truth About Hosta Virus X
Hosta Virus X or HVX as it is known by its acronym is a dangerous, contagious virus that is killing hostas in both North America and Europe. It first started showing up in North America about five years ago when mutated looking plants with strange markings and mottled leaves started growing in nurseries and home gardens.
Hosta Virus X was not detected for a long time at first because at first it was thought to be a new sport of hosta. For those of you who are not hosta fiends, a hosta sport is simply a new variety of plant. Some of these infected plants were even named and sold in the U.S. and Britain. The virus also infected the large growing fields of Holland where most of the hostas sold in the world are grown. Examples of new plants that were actually named even though they were just infected are Leopard Frog, Breakdance and Lunacy varieties of hosta.
In North America there are two very popular varieties of hosta that are known to be widely infected with this virus. This includes the chartreuse variety Sum and Substance and the yellow variety that can tolerate sun called Gold Standard.
Why are people being sold infected hosta plants to this day even though growers and nurseries know that the Hosta Virus X exists? The problem is that the plant will not display any symptoms that it is a carrier of the virus for up to 3 or 4 years. The plant can be a carrier of the virus and still look normal during this time.
Symptoms of Hosta Virus X include dark blue or black veins that look like ink bleeding marks on Kleenex. Other symptoms are mottled and discolored leave. There may be bleached looking patches on green or blue leaves or dark green blotches on yellow leaved hostas.
This virus is also very hard to get rid of. It lurks in the sap of the plant affecting the roots, leaves and stems. If you think you have a plant infected with this contagious plant disease then uproot it immediately and throw it into your garbage or even better burn it. Do not throw it onto your compost heap as that is a place where the virus can be recycled back into your garden. As long as you are able to remove every single bit of dead tissue from the ground that belonged to the infected plant you should be okay. Make sure that you wash the tools you used to dig up diseased plants with bleach so you don’t infect other areas of the garden as well.
Yet another way to prevent Hosta Virus X from spreading is to not buy any plants that are displaying symptoms of the disease from a grocery store, nursery or garden center. Always be sure to buy your hosta plants from a reputable hosta dealer. Many of the commercial growers limit their sources to those who have very high standards of disease and pest control. This along with constant monitoring of their growing areas tends to keep Hosta Virus X limited to those who decide NOT to employ these higher growing standards.
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